Irina Dubina: I think that fashion photography has started to move away from a trend of the past few years, described as "a model in beautiful clothes stands / sits / lies in a beautiful location / studio", towards ideology. Today simply a beautiful picture does not excite anymore. There are too many photographers / stylists in the industry: and in order to stand out, it is necessary, first, to do something unusual, different from others, and, second, to fill photos with meanings and subtexts.
It is difficult to give a clear description of today's visual code. There are some trends like, for example, a gradual shift from a warm colour correction and a low angle towards a warm / cold colours contrast and a direct angle. At the same time, there are photographers with their own vision — and they also look relevant. It is all about details: light, colour correction, retouching, model type, and styling — all these aspects make a difference in fashion visual art.
Katya Starostina: Today the visual market is developing in a socially responsible direction at a greater pace than ever before. The advertising industry still retains many stereotypes which have existed since the mid twentieth century. However, there are more campaigns, books, and photo shoots that offer an alternative to the "ideal" images that we got used to see. The mass media is now more open to a non-standard beauty, and photography is coming closer to reality — conventional beauty, perfect skin, unnaturally slim physique, and body parameters unachievable for the majority of the people are becoming a thing of the past. The emerging trends are minimal retouching, extended model standards, de-tabooed aging, and beauty diversity.
It has become obvious that ethical issues and relevance of artistic practices must be given more attention. A recent case is Vogue UA July 2018 which led to yet another round of discussion on the difference between cultural appropriation and cooperation, between an "invasive usurpation" and a dialogue of cultures. Dedicated to the East, the issue featured a white model in xenophobic Dolce&Gabbana who sits on tatami in shoes which is not acceptable in the Japanese culture.